Drive time: 6.5–7 hours via NH9 (Ghaziabad–Moradabad–Rampur–Kathgodam)
Key stops: Village Food Courts EPE (35 km) → Kundan's Gajraula (120 km) → Kathgodam (270 km)
Best season: October–March (clear skies, cool temps, Sattal lake access)
Signature experience: Sattal Lake dog swimming + Emerald Trail fenced gardens
We had been planning this one for a while. A proper overnight road trip from Delhi to the Kumaon hills - 17 people, 5 cars, Apple our five-year-old Golden Retriever, and Shimba. We hadn't even left Gurgaon when Gopal's car died in Faridabad. Just serviced the day before. Mechanics came, found nothing, left. Gopal found a Zoom car in under two hours. Nobody gets left behind. By 1 AM we were on NH24, five cars deep, headed for Bhimtal.
This guide covers the complete route, the two highway stops that saved us, the resort where Apple had a fenced garden to himself, and Sattal - one of the most genuinely dog-friendly lake spots we have found in Uttarakhand.
Why Bhimtal Works for Dogs
Bhimtal sits at around 1,370 metres in the Kumaon hills, roughly 22 km from Nainital. Unlike Nainital, it has no mall road crowds, no tourist barriers, and significantly less noise. The lake itself has accessible banks. The surrounding forests have walking trails. And critically - properties here tend to be spread-out farmhouses and cottages rather than hotel towers, which means most of them have outdoor space dogs can actually use.
Bhimtal is also the gateway to Sattal, the Seven Lakes of Kumaon, which is one of the rare places in Uttarakhand where dogs can get into the water without anyone making it difficult for you. More on that below.
The Two Highway Stops You Cannot Skip
If you are driving from Delhi with dogs, your first constraint is not your fuel tank - it is your dogs. A large dog in a car for 7–8 hours without a proper break is a stressed, uncomfortable dog, and a stressed dog makes the whole car worse. These two stops are not optional. They are the difference between dogs who arrive ready to explore and dogs who arrive wound up and anxious.
Stop 1 - Shiva Dhaba, Babugarh (80 km from Delhi, approximately 2 AM)
Open outdoor space, hot chai at any hour, and nobody bothers your dogs. Apple and Shimba stretched, ran a little, drank water, and we were back on the road in 20 minutes. See the full listing for Shiva Dhaba on Babugarh NH24 →
Stop 2 - Moga Punjabi Dhaba, 130 km from Delhi (approximately 3 AM)
Operating since 1969. We walked in at 3 AM starving. The first thing we noticed: street dogs sleeping on the floor inside - not outside, inside - like furniture the staff stepped around. Apple and Shimba ate with us at the outdoor tables. If a place treats its own dogs like that, you already know how they will treat yours. Good food at 3 in the morning. See the Moga Punjabi Dhaba listing →
Where We Stayed - Emerald Trail, Bhimtal
Emerald Trail is 40 minutes uphill from Bhimtal on a forest road that narrows as it climbs. The air when you step out is actually cold. The resort team saw Apple before they saw us. Before keys, before check-in, a water bowl was already on the ground. That one moment told us everything about this place.
Seven independent cottages, each with a private fenced garden. Your dog roams all day without supervision. No extra pet charges. Boiled chicken, rice, and eggs from the kitchen on request. One rule: bring them inside at night. Leopards move through this forest after dark. Apple had the whole garden to himself. We finally slept.
The property is at around 1,700 metres, noticeably cooler than Bhimtal town. If you are travelling in summer - April to June - this elevation difference matters enormously for dogs. At 1,700 m, mornings and evenings are genuinely comfortable even in May. Full details, pet policy, and contact for Emerald Trail →
Sattal - The Seven Lakes of Kumaon
Sattal is 22 km from Bhimtal. Seven interconnected lakes in a valley surrounded by oak and pine forests. We went to Sita Taal, which has the most accessible water entry for dogs - gently sloping banks that go gradually into the water rather than dropping sharply.
Apple walked straight in the moment she saw the water. Shimba followed. For twenty minutes it was exactly what a post-drive afternoon should be - Himalayan lake, afternoon light, seventeen people on the bank, two dogs swimming. See the Sattal Lake listing for entry details and dog swimming notes →
Sattal is also significantly less crowded than Bhimtal Lake or Nainital. Go on a weekday if you can. Weekends bring families and the banks get crowded quickly.
The Gaula River
If Sattal is the headline, the Gaula River running through the Bhimtal valley is the quieter find. Rocky banks, clear water, and significantly fewer people. If your dog is comfortable on uneven terrain, this is actually the better swimming spot - more space to run, natural boulders to scramble on, and the river sound is calming in a way that still lake water is not.
Where to Eat in Bhimtal with Dogs
Most restaurants in Bhimtal town are small, indoor-focused places where dogs are not particularly welcome inside. Let Me Dine in Bhimtal is the one we found that has outdoor seating with enough space for dogs and a relaxed attitude about it. Good food, lake-facing tables, and no dirty looks when Apple settled under the chair.
The Dogs to the Rescue Moment
The incident that named the video happened at Sattal. One of our team members got into difficulty in the water - nothing catastrophic, but they were struggling. Apple, without being asked, without a command, without looking at us for permission, went in and came back to them. He didn't wait. He just went.
We have travelled with Apple for five years. We know he is a good dog. But watching him read a situation, decide, and act - that was something different. Some dogs just know.
Planning Your Own Trip - Key Details
- Distance from Delhi: 310–330 km via NH9 (Moradabad route) or NH34 (Haridwar route - longer but scenic)
- Drive time: 7–8 hours including two breaks
- Best time to travel: October to March for cool weather; April–June possible if you stay above 1,500 m; avoid July–September (monsoon, landslides)
- Dog stops on route: Shiva Dhaba Babugarh (80 km) and Moga Punjabi Dhaba (130 km) are the two verified stops we use
- Stay: Emerald Trail for a leash-free forest cottage experience
- Water spots: Sattal (Sita Taal) for swimming, Gaula River for rocky-bank exploration
- Food with dogs: Let Me Dine, Bhimtal for outdoor seating
Related Places on This Route
- Shiva Dhaba, Babugarh (NH24) - night stop, 80 km from Delhi
- Moga Punjabi Dhaba (NH24) - since 1969, 130 km from Delhi
- Emerald Trail - leash-free resort, Bhimtal
- Sattal Lake - dog swimming spot, Kumaon
- Gaula River - river swimming, Bhimtal valley
- Let Me Dine - outdoor dining, Bhimtal
More Guides for Travelling with Dogs in North India
- Jim Corbett with Dogs - Complete Planning Guide
- Rishikesh with Dogs - Where to Stay, What to Do
- How to Travel with Dogs in India by Car
- Road Trip with Dogs India - Complete Packing List
- Night Drives with Dogs in India - How to Do 400 km Without Anyone Losing Their Mind
Frequently Asked Questions
Can dogs swim in Bhimtal Lake?
Bhimtal Lake itself has steep, managed banks - not ideal for dog swimming. Sattal (Seven Lakes) nearby is the better dog swimming option - Sita Taal has gently sloping banks for easy dog entry. The Gaula River near Bhimtal is another Tails Verified swimming spot. Sattal Lake listing →
What is the best pet-friendly stay in Bhimtal?
Emerald Trail is the standout - a Pet First property with private fenced gardens per cottage, a dog menu on request, and staff who know your dog's name by the second day. Tails Verified - personally visited with Apple, Captain, and Kimchi. Emerald Trail listing →
How far is Bhimtal from Delhi?
Approximately 315 km via NH9 through Moradabad and Rampur to Kathgodam, then hill roads to Bhimtal. Driving time 6.5–7 hours. Kathgodam Railway Station (270 km from Delhi) is the nearest railhead - trains from Old Delhi and Anand Vihar available.
What highway stops are dog-friendly on the Delhi–Bhimtal route?
Village Food Courts on the EPE (35 km from Gurgaon) for the first dog break. Kundan's dhaba in Gajraula (120 km) for a midpoint outdoor break with seating for dogs. Both are Tails Verified stops. Kundan's listing →