Rishikesh with 3 Dogs — Ganga, Ghats and One Very Judgmental Indie Dog

We left early on a Friday before the Delhi traffic settled in. Morning drives with dogs work better than night drives for shorter trips — they have slept, eaten breakfast, and are in a calm mood for the first few hours. The Yamuna Expressway was empty. By the Agra bypass the sun was properly up and all three dogs were awake and watching the road.

Murthal is a mandatory stop for anyone driving Delhi to Uttarakhand. Haveli has the open parking and space that works well with large dogs. We ate parathas, gave the kids their breakfast top-up, and used the long lawn strip beside the parking area for a proper stretch session. Apple (The Golden Retriever) found a shady spot immediately. Kimchi found everything.

Our property sat right on the Ganga riverbank, surrounded by forest, with large gardens where dogs could roam freely. We had a riverside cottage with a private stone staircase leading down to the Ganga. The property did not charge extra for pets. The sound of the Ganga from the room at night is something that genuinely stays with you. We have slept in many places. This was different.

Early morning, before the rafting groups arrive, the Ganga is completely still. Apple (The Golden Retriever) went in first. She did not hesitate. She entered the Ganga like she had been here in a previous life. Cold, clear, shallow at the bank. She swam back and forth for forty minutes while we sat on the stones with chai watching her. It was the most content I have ever seen any of our dogs.

Taking three dogs across the Laxman Jhula suspension bridge is not something you plan. You start walking, the dogs follow, the bridge sways, the Ganga is 30 metres below, and suddenly you are all suspended over one of India's most sacred rivers. Captain walked across with complete dignity, pausing at the centre to observe the river. Kimchi tried to chase a monkey. We held on very tightly.

Little Buddha Cafe in Tapovan sits above the Ganga with outdoor terrace seating where dogs are completely welcome. Best breakfast of the trip — banana pancakes, masala chai, fresh juice, and Apple (The Golden Retriever) sitting between us watching the river below with an expression of complete satisfaction. Kimchi ate approximately 40% of our food before we fully understood what was happening.